Attention all watch enthusiasts with smaller wrists: Your time has finally come! Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a game-changing update to its iconic 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph—and it’s now powered by an in-house caliber. But here’s where it gets controversial: while this long-awaited upgrade is a technical triumph, it’s missing one feature that might leave some fans divided. Let’s dive in.
For years, the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph relied on the trusty Frédéric Piguet 1185 movement (branded as AP’s Caliber 2385), a design that debuted in 1988 and became a staple for high-end brands seeking a compact chronograph. Audemars Piguet adopted it in 1997, and it served well—but the absence of an in-house caliber for this model felt like a glaring omission. That changed in 2022 when the 41mm version received the in-house Caliber 4401, leaving the 38mm model to wait its turn. Until now.
Enter the Caliber 6401, a brand-new, compact in-house movement designed specifically for this refreshed 38mm model. This isn’t just any chronograph caliber—it’s a fully integrated masterpiece featuring a vertical clutch, column wheel, and an instantaneous jumping date at midnight. The power reserve has been bumped up to 55 hours (from 40), and the frequency increased to 28,800 VpH. Audemars Piguet even patented the clutch mechanism, boasting a simpler layout with fewer parts, enhanced durability, and smoother pusher operation. But here’s the trade-off: unlike the larger Caliber 4401, the 6401 lacks flyback functionality. Why? To keep the watch’s thickness at a sleek 11.1mm—a decision that’s sure to spark debate among purists.
Three stunning models debut this new movement. The steel version features the classic blue grande tapisserie dial, while two pink gold variants offer a grey dial with silver subdials and a sand-gold-toned dial with beige subdials and a diamond-set bezel. Speaking of subdials, the layout has been flipped: minutes now sit at 9 o’clock, and hours at 3 o’clock. The date window, though still between 4 and 5 o’clock, is more centrally aligned. And for the first time, the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph gets a sapphire caseback, offering a glimpse of the column wheel in action.
Pricing starts at $43,000 for the steel model (ref. 26450ST.OO.1356ST.01), while the pink gold versions come in at $84,500 (ref. 26450OR.OO.1356OR.01) and $91,600 for the diamond-bezel variant (ref. 26450OR.ZZ.1356OR.01). Yes, it’s a slight increase from the previous model’s $41,500 price tag, but given the in-house upgrade, it feels justified—though this is the part most people miss: is the lack of flyback functionality a dealbreaker, or a worthy compromise for a thinner profile?
What do you think? Is the new 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph a must-have addition to the collection, or does the absence of flyback leave you wanting more? Let’s debate in the comments below!
The Basics
- Brand: Audemars Piguet
- Model: Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm
- Reference Numbers: 26450ST.OO.1356ST.01 (Steel), 26450OR.OO.1356OR.01 (Pink Gold), 26450OR.ZZ.1356OR.01 (Pink Gold with Diamonds)
- Diameter: 38mm
- Thickness: 11.1mm
- Case Material: Steel or Pink Gold
- Dial Colors: Blue, Grey, Sand Gold-toned
- Indexes: Applied
- Lume: Yes
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
- Strap/Bracelet: Integrated bracelet with folding clasp
The Movement
- Caliber: In-house Caliber 6401
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
- Diameter: 27mm
- Thickness: 5.7mm
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Winding: Automatic
- Frequency: 28,800 VpH
- Jewels: 44
- Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
- Price: $43,000 (Steel), $84,500 (Pink Gold), $91,600 (Pink Gold with Diamonds)
- Availability: AP Boutiques and Retailers
- Limited Edition: No
For more details, click here.